Daniel's Dish: Side Show
Infused with garlic, creamy aioli is the perfect dip for chilled seafood and tender vegetables
Eating with your fingers is incredibly primal and satisfying. I was reminded of that recently when I spent time with Michel Bernardaud, head of the family porcelain company, and his wife, Betsy, at their house near Bordeaux. Betsy is the best home chef I know, and she made an amazing aioli, a garlic-infused Provençal mayonnaise perfect for dipping. What a pleasant surprise it was, especially since I hadn't had it in so long. She served the aioli casually, outdoors, with copious amounts of beautifully arranged cooked and raw vegetables -- celery, radishes, carrots, potatoes, and beans. There was steamed fish too, which Michel and I had caught that morning. We just kept dipping and dipping! The aioli we make at Bar Boulud, the Manhattan bistro I opened in January, is inspired by Betsy's delicious version, but we have integrated garlic in a more controlled fashion, making it flirtatious rather than hearty. Garlic can be a tricky ingredient for some people. After eating a classic aioli, you can practically feel the garlic seeping into your blood and coming out of your skin! As for what to dip into the aioli, almost any kind of seasonal seafood and vegetable will do; a few hard-boiled eggs are always nice to have on hand as well. The only other requirements are a refreshingly crisp white wine and a group of good friends to share it all with.
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