Daniel's Dish: Smooth Move

Served with a salad and a glass of wine, baked chicken liver is a rich, unexpected treat

Written by Daniel Boulud • Styled by Michele Michael • Food Preparation by AJ Schaller
Photographed by Antonis Achilleos

I wonder why many people do not fully appreciate chicken liver, which is so much a part of French, English, Italian, and Jewish cooking. It is inexpensive, readily available, and nutritious—a serving of liver gives you a good dose of iron. If you still are not convinced of its merits, the baked chicken liver I often ate during my childhood is a delicious way to get over the squeamishness some diners have when it comes to this versatile meat.

I grew up on a farm, so my version of baked chicken liver is meatier than some. (While working on this month's column, I actually called my mother to refresh my memory of how she made it.) However, it's still fairly smooth in texture because of the recipe's cream and eggs. In France, chicken liver is often served with quenelles, large gnocchi that have been stewed in a delicate tomato sauce with olives and mushrooms. A warm gâteau of chicken liver makes a perfect lunch when accompanied by toasted bread and a salad of spinach and tomatoes seasoned with a light vinaigrette. It can also be a deliciously unexpected side to roast chicken.

In the tradition of Lyon, they make a fancier variation called gâteau de foie blond so delicate and light it is practically a custard. This version is even more sophisticated served with a crayfish-bisque sauce. Whichever recipe you choose, keep in mind that unlike a liver pâté, these dishes are best devoured warm from the oven.

MORE ENTERTAINING ARTICLES