Daniel's Dish: Pie Chart

A savory trio of spring quiches makes Sunday brunch a meal worth sharing

Written by Daniel Boulud • Styled by Michele Michael • Food Preparation By AJ Schaller
Photographed by Antonis Achilleos

Twenty years ago, quiche was so popular that it seems like a vintage dish to a lot of people today. But trust me: This well-known savory pie can be as inspiring to the home cook as it can be enticing to guests.

The traditional quiche of Alsace-Lorraine, the French province where the dish was born, is built on a foundation of velvety custard made from eggs whipped with fresh cream. When it comes to the crust, I sometimes like to use layers of phyllo dough as an alternative to the traditional homemade paté brisée, resulting in a lighter and crispier shell. To assemble, I brush the phyllo’s individual papery layers with a beaten egg and sprinkle with bread crumbs, a step that adds thickness, texture, and richness. And a pinch of cayenne pepper gives the custard a barely perceptible kick.

If you are in a bind, you can purchase ready-made pie shells. They cut prep time to almost nothing. That’s especially good to know when you are preparing several quiches simultaneously, which is what I am proposing this month. Just be sure to prebake the shells (as well as the phyllo). The trio of recipes that follows is perfect for an early spring brunch—carrot, pea, and mushroom; smoked salmon with cream cheese; and ham with Gruyère and goat cheese. All you need to accompany them is chilled white wine and asparagus or a salad of your choice splashed with vinaigrette.

The great thing about quiche is its versatility, so have fun. The smoked-salmon version is equally delicious with smoked trout, eel, or sable (a.k.a. black cod). Or substitute bits of crispy bacon for the diced ham. As for the vegetable recipe, use whatever filling inspires you and is in season. Quiche boring? Think again.

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